Keratinize Leave-in Conditioner – Soft, Hydrated Hair All Day LongHydrationDetanglingSoft & Frizz-Free hair all dayHydrationDetanglingSoft & Frizz-Free hair all day

Keratinize Leave-in Conditioner – Soft, Hydrated Hair All Day Long
HydrationDetanglingSoft & Frizz-Free hair all day
HydrationDetanglingSoft & Frizz-Free hair all day

Everyone desires soft, beautiful, and lustrous hair with a natural texture, body, and volume. The big question is, how can we achieve it? The answer lies in programming a suitable and compatible hair care routine. This schedule and well-crafted hair care routine require high-quality and multi-functional products. Leave-in conditioner is perhaps the most important among all products in a hair care regimen. The obvious reason is the nature of its formulation and mode of application.

A conditioner is designed to condition hair and improve its overall health and outlook. Rinse-off conditioner is the most common hair conditioning product consumers use. It has a very limited time of contact with the hair. It is applied while in the shower and rinsed off after 2-5 minutes. This may not be enough for a day-long conditioning and protection against environmental conditions, as hair is exposed to dry, wet, and humid conditions daily, particularly during outdoor time.

A leave-in conditioner is essential to address these concerns and provide day-long conditioning, along with protecting it against outdoor environmental insults.

How to choose a leave-in conditioner? And where to find it quality leave-in conditioner?

This blog introduces Keratinize Leave-in Conditioner, a new product in the Keratinize line, a gentle, lightly textured, creamy lotion ideal for a leave-in application. Let’s go through its science, formulation, key ingredients, and how to get the maximum out of its application.

Keratinize Leave-in Conditioner: Salient Features

Keratinize leave-in conditioner is a specially formulated product with a light, creamy texture that makes it easy to apply and work out on each hair strand. The product offers a wide range of benefits to hair, as listed here

◉ Hydrates hair with potent hydrating agents
◉ Address serious dryness and lifeless hair
◉ Removes the tangles
◉ Provides an ease of combing, styling & manageability
◉ Reduces static charge density to control flyaway
◉ Make hair soft with an amazing sensorial feel
◉ Lustrous hair with immense shine
◉ Minimize split ends
◉ Prevents hair breakage
◉ h2Frizz control, get rid of dull and deep casting

Ingredients

Water, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Mel (Honey) Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Turbinado Brown Sucrose, Trideceth – 12, Lactic acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium sorbate. Fragrance, EDTA Disodium.

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

It is a cationic hair softening agent carrying a long hydrophobic carbon tail that provides conditioning, detangling, and softness. It attaches to the negatively charged sites of keratin amino acids via electrostatic chemical bonding and withstands washing, providing excellent conditioning. Countering the negative charge density also minimizes the flyaway problem.

Turbinado Brown Sucrose

Turbinado Brown Sucrose is a natural brown sugar component commonly used in beverages, food, and cosmetics. It is an amazing hydrating agent because of multiple water-binding sites on sugar molecules. Due to its organic nature and polymeric polysaccharide molecules, it binds, holds, and delivers water molecules to the scalp and hair fibre even at low humidity levels. It also gives a pleasant odour and aesthetic feel to the leave-in formulation.

Lactic acid

Milk-derived alpha-hydroxy acid is known for its superior hydrating benefits to skin and hair, Lactic acid is the key player in building the required pH level as well as binding water molecules to the hair.

Coconut Oil

An excellent natural emollient with multifunctional benefits to hair and scalp, coconut oil is a rich source of fatty acids. Its medium-range carbon chain, mainly comprising lauric acid, provides a very delicate lubrication to the hair shaft. This shorter chain acid penetrates the hair shaft and also improves overall fibre tactile properties.

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a time-honored hair and skin conditioning agent with its special buttery texture offering a unique sensorial feel to the formulation. It is rich in saturated fatty acids that lubricate the hair surface, and also imparts a vibrant, shiny outlook.

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Hydrolyzed keratin is a fiber-strengthening and deep conditioning agent that repairs the broken site, targeting the strong protein-to-protein adhesion. A right molecular weight keratin peptide sticks to the amino acid sites at the surface or deep inside the cortex via a weak covalent bond to make up for the lost protein of hair. This mechanism leads to a rapid recovery and restoration of hair’s mechanical strength. This also works greatly to smooth the cuticle surface, enhancing the water binding (due to increased hydrophilicity) and boosting overall hair shine.

Hydrating Natural Extracts

Leave-in conditioner formulation also features Honey Extract, Green Apple Extract, and Sugar Cane Extracts. These three ingredients are hydrosols (solutions in water) selected due to their high fruit acid content, anti-oxidants, and sugar contents. These ingredients boost the hydrating benefits to hair and scalp and offer a soothing effect. Flavonoids and polyphenols work as natural antioxidants, mitigating any potential free radical-induced damage to hair and scalp.

How to use it?

Apply a generous amount of product to your wet or dry hair. Work it out to get the product to each hair strand.

What type of hair should use this product?

All types of hair, any ethnic background, equally good for virgin low-porosity hair to dry & damaged high-porosity hair. Does not cause any heaviness, any greasy feel, or leave any oil residues.

Ideal Ingredients for a Heat-Protecting FormulationFrizz Control HairKeratin HaircareKeratinize Cuticle SealantSummer HaircareThermal ProtectionFrizz Control HairKeratin HaircareKeratinize Cuticle Sealant

Ideal Ingredients for a Heat-Protecting Formulation
Frizz Control HairKeratin HaircareKeratinize Cuticle SealantSummer HaircareThermal Protection
Frizz Control HairKeratin HaircareKeratinize Cuticle Sealant

Ideal Ingredients for a Heat-Protecting Formulation

Hair needs protection against excessive heat exposure. Heat energy from thermal styling equipment is high enough to denature the keratin of hair fibre and cause damage to its cosmetic features. Hair loses its protein content, becomes dry and fragile, and increases the friction on the cuticle surface. Heat also causes colour fading and loss of hair’s natural shine.1-4 Thermal-protecting formulations are designed to address the adverse impact of heat. Their main objective is to control heat penetration, preserve the keratin structure, and enhance the shine of the cuticle layer. Besides this, the thermal protecting lotion also facilitates combing on wet & dry hair, removing tangles and making hair feel soft.

So, what ingredients make a heat-protecting lotion?

This blog describes choosing the right and ideal ingredients to formulate a heat-protecting lotion. Let’s go through it.

What makes an ingredient offer heat-protecting benefits?

An ideal heat-protecting ingredient is a substance that can withstand excessive & repeated heat exposure. Moreover, it needs to be scalp and hair-friendly and should positively affect the overall health and well-being of hair. As blow drying and flat ironing may generate smoke, this could be hazardous for the health of customers and hair stylists working in the salon, the ingredients should have a high smoke point. This means it should not degrade or burn easily and be thermally stable for the heat generated during blow drying & flat ironing.5

The blend of these ingredients should also glossify the fibers, improving their light interaction and offering a pleasant, radiant outlook.

Key factors in choosing the heat-protecting ingredients

Two key factors are considered in choosing an ingredient for heat protection

◉ Stability against heat energy
◉ High Smoke Point

A smoke point is the temperature at which a material degrades and burns, emitting smoke. This demonstrates its chemical degradation, and a high smoke point temperature highlights its thermal stability.

How do they work to protect Hair?

The cuticle is the first site of interaction and heat energy from thermal equipment is transferred through this cuticle layer reaching deep inside the cortex center. Hair needs some insulating material on the cuticle layer that can minimize the rate of heat transfer. This coating is very fine, delicate yet uniform on the cuticle layer ensuring that the whole strand is covered from the roots to the tips.

On exposure to heat, this coating serves its objectives and slows down the energy transfer, preserving the underlying keratin fiber.

Top Choice Ingredients for Heat Protection & Their Smoke Points

Keeping insight into the above criteria, our top choice ingredients are listed below along with smoke points.

◉ Dimethicone (326 oC)
◉ Refined Avocado Oil (271 oC)
◉ Refined Safflower Oil (266 oC)
◉ Sunflower Oil (252 oC)
◉ Mustard Oil (250 oC)
◉ Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (233 oC)
◉ Almond Oil (221 oC)
◉ Argan Oil (220 oC)

So, where do we find these ingredients? Blending them in a product and extracting maximum benefits.

The answer is

The Keratinize Cuticle Sealant

A product composed of sunflower oil and multi-functional high-tech modified silicones that are carefully selected to protect hair against heat exposure. The formulation also contains cetrimonium chloride, which is a light-textured and moderate molecular water hair-softening agent that also combats static charge density on medium to high porosity hairs. 

Cuticle sealant also contains hydrolysed keratin, a potent cuticle smoothening and cortex-strengthening agent. During heat exposure, this naturally derived material plasticises with the keratin of hair fibre and enhances its mechanical strength. Shea Butter provides a special sensorial feel to dry hair, whereas,  Zinc PCA ensures water-balance on thermally styled hair.

Unique Features of Keratinize Cuticle Sealant

◉ Light – Texture Creamy Lotion
◉ Non-greasy and no oil residues leftover
◉ Sunflower Oil, a key heat-protecting ingredient
◉ Multi-functional silicones to offer heat protection, shine, and cuticle smoothness
◉ Never let your hair dry out. Re-balance the hair’s moisture content after heat exposure.

What do you get in the end?

◉ Beautiful, Vibrant, Shiny Hair with a natural body & texture

References & Further Reading

1. Vagkidis, N.; Li, L.; Marsh, J. M.; Chechik, V., Synergy of UV light and heat in peptide degradation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A: Chemistry 2023, 439, 114627.

2. Lima, C. R. R. d. C.; Couto, R. A. A. d.; Freire, T. B.; Goshiyama, A. M.; Baby, A. R.; Velasco, M. V. R.; Constantino, V. R. L.; Matos, J. d. R., Heat‐damaged evaluation of virgin hair. Journal of cosmetic dermatology 2019, 18 (6), 1885-1892.

3. Harper, D.; Qi, J. C.; Kaplan, P., Thermal styling: efficacy, convenience, damage tradeoffs. Journal of cosmetic science 2011, 62 (2), 139-147.

4. Gamez-Garcia, M., The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1998, 49 (3), 141-153.

5. CORBETT, J. F., The chemistry of hair‐care products. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 1976, 92 (8), 285-303.

Practical Manual for Using Thermal Styling EquipmentDeep ConditioningKeratinize TipsSilicone In HaircareDeep ConditioningKeratinize TipsSilicone In Haircare

Practical Manual for Using Thermal Styling Equipment
Deep ConditioningKeratinize TipsSilicone In Haircare
Deep ConditioningKeratinize TipsSilicone In Haircare

Blow Dryer, Curling Rods & Flat Irons

Thermal styling is popular among consumers as a method to redefine their hairstyles. It provides excellent hair alignment with a defined curl pattern and sets the hair for a brief period. Electric devices deliver heat energy within a temperature range of 140 °c to 220 °c. In previous blogs, we noted that this heat energy can significantly damage the keratin in hair fibers. Managing this damage is crucial to preserving the integrity of hair and maintaining its natural texture, shine, and appearance.

This can only be achieved by correctly using heated equipment at the appropriate temperature, with pre-heat protection applied to the hair. Educating consumers and hair stylists on how to use this thermal equipment effectively is essential. This blog offers a practical manual for using a blow dryer, curling rod, and flat iron. Important questions are answered, including when to use these tools, how to use them, and how to ensure our hair’s health by minimizing the adverse effects of heat energy. How can we maintain a beautiful appearance after applying heat?

Familiarize yourself with the equipment.

Three types of equipment are commonly used for thermal styling

Blow Dryer – used to dry hair with hot air blowing in the temperature range of 60 oC – 70 oC. The objective is to dry out hair and remove moisture after the washing.

Curling Rod – A ceramic or metal rod that contains an electric filament for heating. The temperature ranges from 140 °c to 200 °c. A section of hair strands is inserted into the opening of the curling rod, and heat is applied for 1-3 minutes.  This shapes the hair fibres into a circular pattern, transforming straight hair into curls. The heat setting maintains the curl for a short time; however, when washed, the hair returns to its original style.

Flat Iron – A ceramic or metallic flat plate, hair is placed in between the plates and heated. The temperature ranges from 150 oC to 240 oC. The process is repeated multiple times to straighten curly hair and is set in a Bone-straight shape removing any curls.

Things to do before using thermal equipment

◉ Read through the manual & usage instructions for your blow dryer, curling rod or flat iron machine
◉ Check the temperature control and its functioning Wash hair and scalp Blot out excess water using a towel gently.
◉ Apply a combing lotion or preferably heat-protecting lotion
◉ Dry them using a blow dryer at a normal temperature
◉ Comb your hair gently
◉ Remove any knots and tangles
◉ Divide the whole scalp area into small sections
◉ You are ready for Curling Rod or Flat ironing

Things to avoid

Heat application without proper assessment of hair porosity and overall condition
Never do thermal styling on wet hair Expose hair fibers to heat without adequate protection. Use high temperature all in one go, slowly raise the temperature, use a gradient increase

Wet or Dry Hair: What to do?

Never do it on wet hair! Heating wet hair may intensify the extent of damage.

Hair adsorbs water molecules during washing and gains weight. Wet hair also has a higher diameter compared to dry hair due to longitudinal and lateral swelling. Applying heat generates steam in a localized position underneath the cuticle layer. This can be seen as a bumps or bubble formation under the microscope.

As a result, the surface becomes rough reducing the surface smoothness. It makes it difficult to comb and get rid of tangles. That’s why, it is not recommended to use a blow dryer, curling rod or flat iron on wet hair.

Pre-Heat Protection is Essential: Never Miss it Out

Applying a heat-protecting product is vital before using any sort of thermal styling technique. One should never do thermal styling without protection against heat energy. A good quality heat-protecting formulation must contain thermally stable ingredients that can withstand excessive and repeated exposure to heat. How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair Functional silicones and some natural emollients can tolerate this heat. These ingredients have a high smoke point and do not degrade under the heat.

What temperature to go?

The answer to this question needs a careful assessment of the hair fiber texture and its porosity level. A correlation has been proposed here as a basic guideline for users.

◉ Assessing Hair Texture
◉ Fine Asian hair – Low to moderate temperature
◉ Medium Asian coarse – Moderate temperature
◉ Thick Asian Straight – Moderate to high temperature
◉ Assessing the Porosity level
◉ Low Porosity Virgin hair – Moderate to high temperature
◉ Medium Porosity Hair – Moderate to high temperature
◉ High Porosity Chemically processed – Low temperature
◉ Final Words & Tips

Thermal styling is a great approach to redefining your hairstyle, however, it requires some considerations before exposing hair to heat.

Make an assessment of your hair, its condition, level of dryness and porosity to assert potential heat-induced damage.

Avoid over-application of heat processing. Never do thermal styling on an everyday basis. It’s only once in a while to go.

Always do a trial test on a small section of hair before full head application of any new hair care routine.

Start with a low-temperature point and go slowly to a higher temperature level slowly increasing the heat.

During the week or so, follow up with a deep hydrating mask to mitigate heat damage to hair. This would restore the natural hair texture and regain its natural shine.

Thanks

How to Treat Heat-Damaged HairCuticle SealantThermal ProtectionKeratinizeHair HydrationCuticle SealantThermal ProtectionKeratinize

How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair
Cuticle SealantThermal ProtectionKeratinizeHair Hydration
Cuticle SealantThermal ProtectionKeratinize

How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair

Thermal Hair Styling is one of the first grooming techniques adapted to style and manage scalp hair fibers.1 Iron rods and curling pads made of metallic plates were first heated in an oven, and then hair fibers were wrapped around them. This ancient technique offered promising results and gained popularity despite exposing hair, scalp, and consumers to hot metallic rods. Over the years, the equipment improved, and more user-friendly techniques were developed, especially addressing safety concerns.

Today, curling rods, flat irons, and blow dryers are used by all types of consumers. Besides the benefits of hair styling, grooming, and facilitating hair manageability, heat processing damages hair fibers. These techniques expose hair fibers to a heat source at high temperatures. The previous blog discussed the detailed mechanism and nature of changes inside the hair structure. This blog discusses how to preserve hair fiber against repeated heat exposure and minimize the adverse impact of heat on hair health.

How can we repair the damaged hair fibers to restore their natural outlook, body, and texture? Let’s find out the answer to this question.

Signs of Heat-induced damage to Hair

Excessively heat-processed hair fibers show visible signs of damage. A few of them are listed here
◉ Dryness
◉ Rough feel
◉ Broken hair strands
◉ Split ends
◉ High hair porosity
◉ No definite curl shape
◉ Color fading
Microscopic analysis reveals that heat damages the surface smoothness and causes rupture of the fiber structure.

A Quick Look at Damage Mechanism: What Happens to Hair on Heating?

Heat exposure to hair fibers during thermal styling degrades hair keratin and induces permanent changes in protein structure. Keratin can not withstand excessive heat and will denature. This alters the nature of protein and changes the physical and chemical properties of hair fiber. Damage to hair protein undermines the mechanical strength of hair fiber, its cosmetic features, and its texture.2-4 Hair also loses its total protein content and becomes porous.

Heat application also removes water from the hair surface. The heat energy evaporates the hair’s moisture content, and water molecules escape from the cuticle surface. Under high energy conditions, steam formation underneath the cuticle layer causes a bump formation on the surface, leading to abrupt rupture and breakage on the hair surface. This endangers the integrity of hair fibers and leads to hair breakage. These bumps or chips have been observed under the microscope for heat-processed hair fibers.5-6 

Big Question: How to Repair Heat-Damaged Hair Fibers

Heat-damaged hair fibers require a customized, specifically formulated hair care regimen to restore their natural texture and body. Here are some key aspects of repairing heat-damaged hair fibers.

Hydration for Thermally Processed Hair

Water is the key to hair life. Heat processing diminishes the hair water content and makes hair dry, rough, and brittle. Localized steam formation damages the cuticle layer and alters the surface properties, making it difficult to comb, brush, and style. Hence, it is vital to add and maintain the moisture level of hair fibers. Hair care products containing humectants and hydrating agents are strongly recommended for this job. Also, consumers should avoid using any hair care product that contains drying alcohol (e.g, ethyl alcohol) or other harsh chemicals (SLS, sodium hydroxide, etc.) that can dry the hair fibers. Our recommended humectants and hydrating ingredients are
◉ Vegetal Glycerin
◉ Propanediol
◉ Alpha Hydroxy acids, preferably Lactic acid and Sodium Lactate
◉ Sodium PCA or Zinc PCA
◉ Betaine
◉ Panthenol
◉ Aloe Vera Juice or Gel
◉ Ceramides
◉ Emollients
Emollients are key ingredients that prevent the loss of water molecules from the hair surface. They are generally hydrophobic liquids that form a water-resistant layer on the hair surface and therefore, minimize water escape. Natural emollients are preferred because of their multifunctional benefits, green origin, and sustainable supply chain. Deep Conditioning products, e.g. Rinse-Off Conditioners, Deep Conditioning Masks, and leave-in conditioners, should contain these natural emollients to improve the quality of heat-damaged hair fibers. These natural emollients also enhance the sensorial texture and dry feel following the application. Our selected and preferred natural emollients for heat-damaged hair fibers are
◉ Shea Butter
◉ Cocoa Butter
◉ Mango Seed Oil
◉ Babassu Oil
◉ Coconut Oil
◉ Apricot Kernel Oil
◉ Meadowfoam Seed Oil
◉ Baobab Oil
The best way is to have a blend and combination of two to three different oils or butter in a formulation. For heat protection, the selected natural oil should have a high smoke point to avoid smoke formation during thermal styling.

Keratin

Keratin and related amino acids are excellent active ingredients that target the cuticle surface and inner cortical structures. The application of keratin on heat-processed hair improves the surface smoothness of the cuticle layer, and because of their hydrophilic nature, proteins also enhance fiber moisture levels.

Silicones

Silicones are multifunctional materials with strong surface coating properties and water repellency. They are excellent surface smoothening agents that address cuticular friction and minimize fiber-to-friction friction. These ingredients are highly stable and do not undergo any degradation or molecular breakdown during heat exposure. That’s why they demonstrate excellent heat protection to hair fiber during blow drying and flat ironing. Having a small dosage of silicone oils can preserve hair proteins and minimize the adverse impact of excessive heating. Some key heat-protecting silicones are
◉ Dimethicone
◉ Cyclomethicone
◉ Cyclopentasiloxane
◉ Phenyltrimethicone
◉ Amodimethicone
There is nothing wrong with using silicones as long as they are used in small dosages and low frequency.

How can we repair the damaged hair?

Repairing damaged hair fibers requires a comprehensive strategy to restore their surface quality, shine, sensorial, texture, and hair body. Besides having good quality and customized hair care products, it requires a well-thought-out plan of a day-to-day hair care routine, consistency, continuation, dedication, and commitment. There is no such magic product to fix the problem. One needs to try a set of products and figure out what works for their hair. More importantly, keep it simple and work out the basics. This will ensure a cost-benefit and yet an effective hair care regimen. Some key tips are described below as a basic guideline.

Key Tips to Restore Hair Texture

◉ Prevention is better than cure. Try to cut down on heat processing.
◉ Use normal air-blow drying instead of hot air.
◉ Use a low heat level for flat ironing.
◉ Always apply a Heat-Protecting lotion before blow drying or flat ironing.
◉ After washing, always remove excess water using a towel. Applying heat to wet hair causes more damage to the fiber.

Recommended Product

Keratinize Cuticle Sealant is a specially formulated product to minimize the impact of heat on hair, control water loss, and prevent hair breakage. It is a blend of humectants, natural emollients, and thermally stable yet volatile silicones. This formulation offers fiber detangling, cuticle alignment, and minimal protein loss. It prevents water loss from the fiber and imparts intense shine by improving light interaction with the hair fibers. Strongly recommended for medium to high-porosity hair, especially chemically processed hair fibers with bleach, perms, permanent colors, and straighteners.

Summary

Heat-damaged hair fibers are dry, brittle, and rough. They are difficult to style and manage during everyday grooming. These hair fibers require a comprehensive and customized hair care regimen to restore their natural outlook, shine, texture, and body. Keratinize Cuticle Sealant offers a thermal shield against heat exposure and is strongly recommended for hair care consumers who often employ heat styling.

References

1. Zviak, C., The Science of Hair Care. Taylor & Francis: 2005.

2. Shiel, S., Hair health and management of common hair disorders. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2007, 6, 12-17.

3. Vagkidis, N.; Li, L.; Marsh, J.; Chechik, V., Synergy of UV light and heat in peptide degradation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A: Chemistry 2023, 114627.

4. Wortmann, F. J.; Wortmann, G.; Marsh, J.; Meinert, K., Thermal denaturation and structural changes of α-helical proteins in keratins. Journal of Structural Biology 2012, 177 (2), 553-560.

5. Crawford, R.; CR, R., A hysteresis in heat dried hair. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem 1981, 32, 27-36.

6. Tanamachi, H., Temperature as a moisture cue in haptics on hair. Inter. J. of Cosmet. Sci 2011, 33 (1), 25-36.

The Science of Heat Damage: How Thermal Styling Affects Your HairCuticle SealantFrizz Free StylingHair Care ScienceKeratinize Cuticle SealantCuticle SealantFrizz Free StylingHair Care Science

The Science of Heat Damage: How Thermal Styling Affects Your Hair
Cuticle SealantFrizz Free StylingHair Care ScienceKeratinize Cuticle Sealant
Cuticle SealantFrizz Free StylingHair Care Science

Heat Damage to Hair Fiber

Thermal styling, reshaping, or straightening is common and popular among consumers. This processing alters the physical shape of the hair fiber temporarily and fixes it in a definite style for a short period.1-2 However, this heat exposure can damage the hair fiber. Hair comprises protein (keratin); heat can denature keratin like other proteins. Heat or thermal damage is a major concern to hair quality, damage to fiber integrity, loss of gloss, and may even cause hair breakage.3-6 Here, we study the basics of heat damage to the human hair fiber, the nature of damage to the fiber’s structure and morphology, and how we can preserve hair fiber against repeated exposure to heat energy.

Blow Drying & Flat Ironing, Curling Rods

Blow drying is a commonly used approach to quickly drying wet hair fibers and styling them in the desired shape soon after showering. Flat irons or curly rods press hair fibers between ceramic or metallic plates to straighten or curl them using heat. All these techniques and equipment convert electric energy into heat energy, which is subsequently used for hair processing.

What temperature do these types of equipment go?

The amount of heat or temperature of the air used varies with the consumer’s choice. A typical blow dryer with hot heat blowing may have a temperature of 60 – 70oC while flat ironing is generally carried out at 150 – 240 oC degrees Celsius (350 – 400 F).

Scientific studies have confirmed that higher heat means a greater decrease in the alpha-helical content of protein. This translates into a higher protein loss from the inner cortex of hair fiber.

What Happens to Hair on Heating?

Keratin Denaturation

Keratin is the protein that makes most of the hair’s mass. Proteins are organic molecules and they are sensitive to heat energy. All proteins undergo permanent deformation on heating. A simple example is boiling/frying an egg. Here, albumin changes permanently and can not be reversed.

Similarly, permanent changes in keratin structure on heating alter its physical and chemical properties. The thermal styling techniques are designed to straighten, or style hair fibers and offer a better style retention. However, exposure to heat energy and high elevated temperature denatures the keratin protein leading to several negative cosmetic features to hair fibers. These adverse changes are collectively termed “Keratin Denaturation” (Changes in Keratin structure). Let’s look at some key thermodynamic data about keratin.

Thermal Parameters of Hair Keratin

◉ Denaturation Temperature for Caucasian Dry Hair = 231 oC
◉ Denaturation Temperature for Caucasian Wet Hair = 151 oC
On examining these denaturation temperatures to the temperature levels of thermal equipment, it is clear that these types of equipment can cause significant keratin denaturation. Wet hair is more easily and highly vulnerable to denaturation and has more damage than dry hair due to its high water content and localized steam generation. Steam is generated just underneath the cuticle layer when wet hair is heated. This causes chipping and bubbling, making the surface rough and bumpy. Furthermore, steam has a higher heat capacity than hot air, which further intensifies heat insult and damage extent.

Adverse Impact on Hair Health

A few common signatures of hair damage are listed here as compiled from the science literature.
◉ Cuticle Chipping & Removal
◉ Surface roughness – due to cuticle removal, and protein degradation
◉ Difficult to Comb – due to cuticular damage
◉ Fiber Breakage & Split-ends – higher force required to comb
◉ Dryness – due to water loss
◉ Loss of Shine, Natural Texture, and Bounce
◉ Compromised Sensorial Feel
◉ Color Fading
◉ Frizz – Static Charge

Keratinize Cuticle Sealant

Hair needs protection against heat energy to achieve a beautiful outlook and facilitate everyday hair grooming. The Keratinize Cuticle Sealant is specially crafted to protect hair against heat damage. Its formulation comprises multi-functional and thermally stable ingredients that can tolerate high temperatures of thermal styling. This Cuticle Sealant offers a beautiful outlook, immense shine, improved texture, and an amazing sensorial experience for your hair.

Give it a try. 

References & Further Reading

1. Zviak, C., The Science of Hair Care. Taylor & Francis: 1986.

2. CORBETT, J. F., The chemistry of hair‐care products. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 1976, 92 (8), 285-303.

3. Wortmann, F. J.; Wortmann, G.; Marsh, J.; Meinert, K., Thermal denaturation and structural changes of α-helical proteins in keratins. Journal of Structural Biology 2012, 177 (2), 553-560.

4. Nogueira, A.; Scanavez, C.; Carnelos, C.; Gaspari, A.; Joekes, I., Hair color changes caused by dyeing and thermal treatments. Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004, 55 (5), 437-447.

5. Ruetsch, S.; Kamath, Y., Effects of thermal treatments with a curling iron on hair fiber. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004, 26 (4), 217-217.

6. Gamez-Garcia, M., The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1998, 49 (3), 141-153.

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