Practical Manual for Using Thermal Styling Equipment

Practical Manual for Using Thermal Styling Equipment

Blow Dryer, Curling Rods & Flat Irons

Thermal styling is popular among consumers as a method to redefine their hairstyles. It provides excellent hair alignment with a defined curl pattern and sets the hair for a brief period. Electric devices deliver heat energy within a temperature range of 140 °c to 220 °c. In previous blogs, we noted that this heat energy can significantly damage the keratin in hair fibres. Managing this damage is crucial to preserving the integrity of hair and maintaining its natural texture, shine, and appearance. 

This can only be achieved by correctly using heated equipment at the appropriate temperature, with pre-heat protection applied to the hair. Educating consumers and hair stylists on how to use this thermal equipment effectively is essential. This blog offers a practical manual for using a blow dryer, curling rod, and flat iron. Important questions are answered, including when to use these tools, how to use them, and how to ensure our hair's health by minimising the adverse effects of heat energy. How can we maintain a beautiful appearance after applying heat?

Familiarize yourself with the equipment.

Three types of equipment are commonly used for thermal styling

Blow Dryer - used to dry hair with hot air blowing in the temperature range of 60 oC - 70 oC. The objective is to dry out hair and remove moisture after the washing. 

Curling Rod - A ceramic or metal rod that contains an electric filament for heating. The temperature ranges from 140 °c to 200 °c. A section of hair strands is inserted into the opening of the curling rod, and heat is applied for 1-3 minutes.  This shapes the hair fibres into a circular pattern, transforming straight hair into curls. The heat setting maintains the curl for a short time; however, when washed, the hair returns to its original style. 

Flat Iron - A ceramic or metallic flat plate, hair is placed in between the plates and heated. The temperature ranges from 150 oC to 240 oC. The process is repeated multiple times to straighten curly hair and is set in a Bone-straight shape removing any curls. 

Things to do before using thermal equipment

• Read through the manual & usage instructions for your blow dryer, curling rod or flat iron machine
• Check the temperature control and its functioning
• Wash hair and scalp
• Blot out excess water using a towel gently 
• Apply a combing lotion or preferably heat-protecting lotion
• Dry them using a blow dryer at a normal temperature 
• Comb your hair gently
• Remove any knots and tangles
• Divide the whole scalp area into small sections
• You are ready for Curling Rod or Flat ironing

Things to avoid 

• Heat application without proper assessment of hair porosity and overall condition
• Never do thermal styling on wet hair
• Expose hair fibres to heat without adequate protection
• Use high temperature all in one go, slowly raise the temperature, use a gradient increase

Wet or Dry Hair: What to do?

Never do it on wet hair! Heating wet hair may intensify the extent of damage. 

Hair adsorbs water molecules during washing and gains weight. Wet hair also has a higher diameter compared to dry hair due to longitudinal and lateral swelling. Applying heat generates steam in a localized position underneath the cuticle layer. This can be seen as a bumps or bubble formation under the microscope. 

As a result, the surface becomes rough reducing the surface smoothness. It makes it difficult to comb and get rid of tangles. That’s why, it is not recommended to use a blow dryer, curling rod or flat iron on wet hair. 

Pre-Heat Protection is Essential: Never Miss it Out

Applying a heat-protecting product is vital before using any sort of thermal styling technique. One should never do thermal styling without protection against heat energy. A good quality heat-protecting formulation must contain thermally stable ingredients that can withstand excessive and repeated exposure to heat How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair Functional silicones and some natural emollients can tolerate this heat. These ingredients have a high smoke point and do not degrade under the heat.

What temperature to go?

The answer to this question needs a careful assessment of the hair fibre texture and its porosity level. A correlation has been proposed here as a basic guideline for users. 

Assessing Hair Texture

Fine Asian hair - Low to moderate temperature 

Medium Asian coarse - Moderate temperature

Thick Asian Straight - Moderate to high temperature

Assessing the Porosity level

Low Porosity Virgin hair - Moderate to high temperature

Medium Porosity Hair - moderate to high temperature

High Porosity Chemically processed - Low temperature

Final Words & Tips

• Thermal styling is a great approach to redefining your hairstyle, however, it requires some considerations before exposing hair to heat.
• Make an assessment of your hair, its condition, level of dryness and porosity to assert potential heat-induced damage.
• Avoid over-application of heat processing. Never do thermal styling on an everyday basis. It's only once in a while to go. 
• Always do a trial test on a small section of hair before full head application of any new hair care routine.
• Start with a low-temperature point and go slowly to a higher temperature level slowly increasing the heat. 
• During the week or so, follow up with a deep hydrating mask to mitigate heat damage to hair. This would restore the natural hair texture and regain its natural shine. 

Thanks