How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair

How to Treat Heat-Damaged Hair

Thermal Hair Styling is one of the first grooming techniques adapted to style and manage scalp hair fibers.1 Iron rods and curling pads made of metallic plates were first heated in an oven, and then hair fibers were wrapped around them. This ancient technique offered promising results and gained popularity despite exposing hair, scalp, and consumers to hot metallic rods. Over the years, the equipment improved, and more user-friendly techniques were developed, especially addressing safety concerns. 

Today, curling rods, flat irons, and blow dryers are used by all types of consumers. Besides the benefits of hair styling, grooming, and facilitating hair manageability, heat processing damages hair fibers. These techniques expose hair fibers to a heat source at high temperatures. The previous blog discussed the detailed mechanism and nature of changes inside the hair structure. This blog discusses how to preserve hair fiber against repeated heat exposure and minimize the adverse impact of heat on hair health. 

How can we repair the damaged hair fibers to restore their natural outlook, body, and texture? Let’s find out the answer to this question.

Signs of Heat-induced damage to Hair

Excessively heat-processed hair fibers show visible signs of damage. A few of them are listed here

• Dryness
• Rough feel
• Broken hair strands
• Split ends
• High hair porosity
• No definite curl shape
• Color fading

Microscopic analysis reveals that heat damages the surface smoothness and causes rupture of the fiber structure. 

A Quick Look at Damage Mechanism: What Happens to Hair on Heating?

Heat exposure to hair fibers during thermal styling degrades hair keratin and induces permanent changes in protein structure. Keratin can not withstand excessive heat and will denature. This alters the nature of protein and changes the physical and chemical properties of hair fiber. Damage to hair protein undermines the mechanical strength of hair fiber, its cosmetic features, and its texture.2-4 Hair also loses its total protein content and becomes porous.

Heat application also removes water from the hair surface. The heat energy evaporates the hair’s moisture content, and water molecules escape from the cuticle surface. Under high energy conditions, steam formation underneath the cuticle layer causes a bump formation on the surface, leading to abrupt rupture and breakage on the hair surface. This endangers the integrity of hair fibers and leads to hair breakage. These bumps or chips have been observed under the microscope for heat-processed hair fibers.5-6 

Big Question: How to Repair Heat-Damaged Hair Fibers

Heat-damaged hair fibers require a customized, specifically formulated hair care regimen to restore their natural texture and body. Here are some key aspects of repairing heat-damaged hair fibers.

• Hydration for Thermally Processed Hair

Water is the key to hair life. Heat processing diminishes the hair water content and makes hair dry, rough, and brittle. Localized steam formation damages the cuticle layer and alters the surface properties, making it difficult to comb, brush, and style. Hence, it is vital to add and maintain the moisture level of hair fibers. Hair care products containing humectants and hydrating agents are strongly recommended for this job. Also, consumers should avoid using any hair care product that contains drying alcohol (e.g, ethyl alcohol) or other harsh chemicals (SLS, sodium hydroxide, etc.) that can dry the hair fibers. Our recommended humectants and hydrating ingredients are

1. Vegetal Glycerin
2. Propanediol
3. Alpha Hydroxy acids, preferably Lactic acid and Sodium Lactate
4. Sodium PCA or Zinc PCA
5. Betaine
6. Panthenol
7. Aloe Vera Juice or Gel
8. Ceramides

• Emollients

Emollients are key ingredients that prevent the loss of water molecules from the hair surface. They are generally hydrophobic liquids that form a water-resistant layer on the hair surface and therefore, minimize water escape. Natural emollients are preferred because of their multifunctional benefits, green origin, and sustainable supply chain. Deep Conditioning products, e.g. Rinse-Off Conditioners, Deep Conditioning Masks, and leave-in conditioners, should contain these natural emollients to improve the quality of heat-damaged hair fibers. These natural emollients also enhance the sensorial texture and dry feel following the application. Our selected and preferred natural emollients for heat-damaged hair fibers are

1. Shea Butter
2. Cocoa Butter
3. Mango Seed Oil
4. Babassu Oil
5. Coconut Oil
6. Apricot Kernel Oil
7. Meadowfoam Seed Oil
8. Baobab Oil

The best way is to have a blend and combination of two to three different oils or butter in a formulation. For heat protection, the selected natural oil should have a high smoke point to avoid smoke formation during thermal styling.

• Keratin 

Keratin and related amino acids are excellent active ingredients that target the cuticle surface and inner cortical structures. The application of keratin on heat-processed hair improves the surface smoothness of the cuticle layer, and because of their hydrophilic nature, proteins also enhance fiber moisture levels. 

• Silicones

Silicones are multifunctional materials with strong surface coating properties and water repellency. They are excellent surface smoothening agents that address cuticular friction and minimize fiber-to-friction friction. These ingredients are highly stable and do not undergo any degradation or molecular breakdown during heat exposure. That’s why they demonstrate excellent heat protection to hair fiber during blow drying and flat ironing. Having a small dosage of silicone oils can preserve hair proteins and minimize the adverse impact of excessive heating. Some key heat-protecting silicones are

1. Dimethicone
2. Cyclomethicone
3. Cyclopentasiloxane
4. Phenyltrimethicone
5. Amodimethicone

There is nothing wrong with using silicones as long as they are used in small dosages and low frequency. 

How can we repair the damaged hair?

Repairing damaged hair fibers requires a comprehensive strategy to restore their surface quality, shine, sensorial, texture, and hair body. Besides having good quality and customized hair care products, it requires a well-thought-out plan of a day-to-day hair care routine, consistency, continuation, dedication, and commitment. There is no such magic product to fix the problem. One needs to try a set of products and figure out what works for their hair. More importantly, keep it simple and work out the basics. This will ensure a cost-benefit and yet an effective hair care regimen. Some key tips are described below as a basic guideline.

Key Tips to Restore Hair Texture

• Prevention is better than cure. Try to cut down on heat processing. 
• Use normal air-blow drying instead of hot air.
• Use a low heat level for flat ironing.
• Always apply a Heat-Protecting lotion before blow drying or flat ironing. 
• After washing, always remove excess water using a towel. Applying heat to wet hair causes more damage to the fiber. 

Recommended Product

Keratinize Cuticle Sealant is a specially formulated product to minimize the impact of heat on hair, control water loss, and prevent hair breakage. It is a blend of humectants, natural emollients, and thermally stable yet volatile silicones. This formulation offers fiber detangling, cuticle alignment, and minimal protein loss. It prevents water loss from the fiber and imparts intense shine by improving light interaction with the hair fibers. Strongly recommended for medium to high-porosity hair, especially chemically processed hair fibers with bleach, perms, permanent colors, and straighteners. 

Summary

Heat-damaged hair fibers are dry, brittle, and rough. They are difficult to style and manage during everyday grooming. These hair fibers require a comprehensive and customized hair care regimen to restore their natural outlook, shine, texture, and body. Keratinize Cuticle Sealant offers a thermal shield against heat exposure and is strongly recommended for hair care consumers who often employ heat styling. 

References

1. Zviak, C., The Science of Hair Care. Taylor & Francis: 2005.

2. Shiel, S., Hair health and management of common hair disorders. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2007, 6, 12-17.

3. Vagkidis, N.; Li, L.; Marsh, J.; Chechik, V., Synergy of UV light and heat in peptide degradation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A: Chemistry 2023, 114627.

4. Wortmann, F. J.; Wortmann, G.; Marsh, J.; Meinert, K., Thermal denaturation and structural changes of α-helical proteins in keratins. Journal of Structural Biology 2012, 177 (2), 553-560.

5. Crawford, R.; CR, R., A hysteresis in heat dried hair. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem 1981, 32, 27-36.

6. Tanamachi, H., Temperature as a moisture cue in haptics on hair. Inter. J. of Cosmet. Sci 2011, 33 (1), 25-36.